How Do Cleansing Oils Work for Oily Skin? The Science Explained

The idea of applying oil to already oily skin feels counterintuitive — but it is one of the most well-supported practices in modern skincare science. Cleansing oils, particularly those formulated with the right botanical actives, are not only safe for oily skin: they are often superior to foaming cleansers for maintaining a balanced, healthy complexion.

Here is the science behind why.

The Chemistry: Like Dissolves Like

The fundamental principle behind oil cleansing is basic chemistry: like dissolves like. Sebum — the oil naturally produced by your skin — is a lipid. Foaming cleansers use surfactants to break down and strip this sebum, but in doing so, they also strip the skin's natural moisture barrier, triggering a rebound effect where skin produces even more oil to compensate.

Cleansing oils, on the other hand, bind to sebum, excess product, sunscreen, and environmental pollutants through lipid affinity — and lift them cleanly from the skin without disrupting the barrier. The result is genuinely clean skin that does not feel tight, stripped, or reactive.

Why Oily Skin Benefits Most

Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that repeated use of high-surfactant cleansers significantly increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and disrupted skin barrier integrity — a pattern especially pronounced in oily and acne-prone skin types.

By contrast, oil-based cleansers maintained barrier function across all skin types tested, with oily skin showing the most significant improvement in sebum regulation after 4 weeks of consistent use. The mechanism is understood: by removing excess sebum through lipid affinity rather than surfactant stripping, oil cleansers prevent the compensatory overproduction cycle.

Best Botanical Oils for Oily Skin Cleansing

Jojoba Oil — Technically a liquid wax that closely mimics the structure of human sebum. Jojoba is non-comedogenic, balancing, and has mild antimicrobial properties — ideal as a cleansing base for oily and acne-prone skin.

Grapeseed Oil — High in linoleic acid, which research has shown to be deficient in acne-prone skin. Lightweight and fast-absorbing, grapeseed oil cleanses without leaving a residue.

Tea Tree Oil (at low concentration) — A well-studied antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory botanical. At concentrations of 1–5%, tea tree oil has been clinically shown to reduce acne lesions comparably to benzoyl peroxide, with significantly less irritation.

Rosehip Oil — Encourages gentle cell turnover and supports post-breakout skin repair.

How to Use a Cleansing Oil Correctly

Step 1: Apply to dry skin. This is critical. Water deactivates the lipid affinity mechanism. Apply the cleansing oil directly to dry face and massage for 60 seconds.

Step 2: Emulsify with water. Add a small amount of water and massage again — the oil will turn milky white as it binds to impurities and lifts them from the skin.

Step 3: Rinse thoroughly. Use lukewarm water to remove completely. Follow with a gentle water-based cleanser if doing a double cleanse (recommended for heavy makeup or SPF users).

Step 4: Do not over-cleanse. Once daily — in the evening — is sufficient for most oily skin types. Morning cleansing with oil is unnecessary and can disrupt the skin's natural morning sebum regulation.

The Skin Leaf Deep Facial Cleansing Oil

The Skin Leaf Deep Facial Cleansing Oil is formulated with Grapeseed Oil, Vitamin C and E, Rosehip, and Tea Tree — specifically designed for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin. It received the Beauty Shortlist Awards – Editor's Choice 2025, recognizing both its formulation efficacy and clean ingredient standard.

Deep Facial Cleansing Oil

$32.50

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Available online at skinleaf.co, shipping nationwide across the United States.