Is Your Manicure Safe? The Truth About TPO and the Upcoming EU Ban

At our brand, we’ve always taken a proactive stance on ingredient safety—even for product categories we don’t manufacture, like nail care. So when one of the most widely used compounds in UV gel manicures—TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide)—was recently banned in the EU, we knew it was important to speak up.

Let’s explore what TPO is, why it was once accepted, and why it’s now being removed from every EU-approved cosmetic shelf.

What Is TPO?

TPO is a photoinitiator, commonly used in UV/LED-cured nail products to help them harden quickly and evenly. It reacts under light to polymerize gel resins, creating that durable, high-shine finish consumers love.

Though we don’t produce nail products, we recognize that shifts in cosmetic regulation—especially around toxicological safety—affect the entire industry. The TPO story is a case study in how scientific re-evaluation can change what we consider "safe."

The 2014 Case: TPO Was Once Approved for Use

Back in 2014, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) evaluated TPO under SCCS/1548/14. Their conclusion?

"The use of TPO as a photoinitiator in artificial nail systems at concentrations up to 5.0% is considered safe, provided that it is applied professionally and is not used on damaged nails."— SCCS/1548/14 Final Opinion, 2014

At that time, the SCCS allowed for the limited professional use of TPO, citing low systemic exposure due to the localized, external nature of nail application. The ruling was based on then-available toxicology and exposure data.

This approval led to widespread adoption of TPO in UV/LED nail gels across salons and home-use products in Europe.

2023: Scientific Reassessment and Regulatory Reversal

In May 2023, new toxicological data prompted a fresh SCCS review—SCCS/1656/23—which reversed the previous position.

Key concerns from the updated opinion:

• TPO is classified as a CMR 1B substance—presumed human reproductive toxicant.

• Animal studies showed testicular toxicity and hormone disruption.

• TPO has low metabolic clearance, increasing its potential for bioaccumulation.

• The calculated Margin of Safety (MoS) was deemed inadequate for consumer protection.

As a result, the European Commission adopted Regulation (EU) 2024/197, officially banning TPO by adding it to Annex II (the prohibited list) of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (1223/2009).

What Happens Now?

• Until August 31, 2025 – Products containing TPO may still be marketed in the EU.

• As of September 1, 2025 – All products with TPO are prohibited in the EU market.

• UK Regulation – A similar ban is anticipated for late 2026, pending separate regulatory review.

  
  

Why Does This Matter (Even Outside the Nail Industry)?

This case reflects the evolution of cosmetic safety. What was considered acceptable a decade ago may now be recognized as a health risk. It’s a call to action for brands, chemists, and consumers alike:

• To re-examine legacy formulations

• To demand ongoing toxicological reviews

• To never assume an ingredient’s safety is permanent

This is exactly why our brand has never used TPO—or any photoinitiators—in our formulas, and why we stay vigilant even beyond our product category.

The Bigger Picture: Ingredient Safety Is Not Static

The transition from the 2014 approval at 5% to the 2025 full ban illustrates something crucial: ingredient safety is not a one-time checkbox. It's an evolving, evidence-based process. Brands must be agile, responsive, and responsible.

For nail brands, this means transitioning to alternatives like:

• TPO-L (a less hazardous derivative)

• HCPK (Hydroxycyclohexyl Phenyl Ketone)

• Ethyl Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphinate

For consumers and professionals, it means being more ingredient-literate and holding brands accountable.

Our Commitment to Transparency

While we don’t create nail products, we care deeply about beauty safety. That’s why we:

✅ Stay up-to-date on ingredient regulation worldwide

✅ Formulate without known toxic, CMR, or high-risk compounds

✅ Commit to educating our community—even on topics beyond our product line

Science Evolves—So Should Beauty

The TPO case reminds us that “safe” isn’t static. It’s dynamic, shifting with each new discovery. As cosmetic brands, educators, and advocates, we all share a responsibility: to question, to improve, and to protect.

So whether you’re choosing a nail polish or a face serum, look beyond the claims. Read the ingredients. Know the history. And trust only those brands that put your safety before convenience.

We're proud to be one of them.